Crosman 2240/1377 Grip panel modification
The first contact you make with your pistol is on the cheap plastic grip panels. Well, not that cheap if you have to replace them, but, cheaper than the custom grip panels that are available to buy. You can spend as much as you did for the pistol to get better grip panels or you could improve the function of the existing plastic grip panels. I have read some reviews where 2240 and 1377 owners have complained of loose grip panels. People write that they tried tightening the screws without any improvement.
This design “flaw” keeps pistol owners, with a screwdriver, from being able to break their grip panels. The down side is a wobbly grip condition caused by a part of the panel molding, called a post, being too tall.
The screws run through the posts that stop the panels from being over-tightened to the point of breaking. However, the panels pivot on the posts, causing a loose hold on the pistol. To tighten your hold on the pistol you need to tighten the panels on the grip frame.
With the flat of a knife against the grip frame edges, you can see that the edges of the frame are the same height as the post stops (or lugs).
You will see that the corresponding edges of the grip panels themselves are lower than the height of the posts. In other words, the posts are taller than the edges of the panels that meet up with the grip frame.
Using a chip of cinder block (he he he), a file, heavy grit sandpaper, or, the like, you can reduce the height of the posts to the level of the grip panel edges, or a little below. I use a 3/8 inch paddle bit to cut the posts down because it leaves a fairly flat, clean edge on the posts.
There are also three contact points between the grip frame and grip panels that have large gaps. These gaps also encourage movement of the grip panels on the grip frame.
They are easy to fill with a touch of silicone adhesive/sealer or other glue. If you lightly moisten the metal grip frame with oil (anything from cooking oil to motor oil) and place the adhesive/sealer on the grip panels you should be able to separate them later. I used no oil and the silicone sealer separated from the metal frame with no effort and remained on the plastic panels.
Use just a drop or two of adhesive/sealer at the two sharp corners and the locating nub to fill the gaps. Let the adhesive set up a bit and then affix the grip panels being sure the sealer fills the offending gaps. Wait a day or so for the “glue” to harden, then take the grip panels off the frame gently or just leave the panels in place. There is really not much reason to remove the left panel at all.
That alone should help stop the panels from shifting on the frame. However, if you want even more grip panel security and have a hankering to spend some more money on the project, you can change the screws and contact points. To go the extra mile you would need to buy something like 0.175 inch ID and 0.32 inch OD o-rings, a couple of 0.195 inch ID and 0.45 inch OD brass or other suitable washers and replace the factory screws with stainless steel or other machine screws.
The machine screws will have flat edges to press against the washers. The washers help distribute the pressure of the screw heads over a larger area and will stop the o-rings from squishing out of the inlets cut into the grip panels.
Another option is to buy aftermarket panels (usually for big bucks), or buy Crosman 1700P or Benjamin Marauder pistol panels for a fraction of the cost and for a much better fit than the 2240 panels.
So you can buy and install a steel breech; you can crown the barrel; you can buy and install a fancy adjustable trigger spring; but, if every time you hold the pistol it shifts in your hand, what have you gained?
Shoot smart. Shoot safely.
Poorman Plinker
